010 Electric car conversion 101 – Dodge Neon Update Nov 2010
What’s been going on lately with Tom’s 300V AC Dodge Neon Electric Car.
Recent entries
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- Was the 2008 election a War between Big Oil & Electric Utilities for the Trillion dollar Motor Fuel business?
- TaTa Motors – Do they have plans for an electric car?
- How do hybrid cars give a car way better gas milage?
- what upgrades ON A ELECTRIC RC 1/10 ON ROAD CAR will make the most improvement?
- Electric cars with train motors?
- i was thinking of ways to increase a car power and fuel efficiency, think this might work?
- Electric powered car with small generator converted to act as an alternator? Gas going to be $7/gal by 2012???
- Measurement for a permanent meter that will be used to fill a rail car?
- Electric Car Controller/Battery Question!?
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Syndicate
September 1st, 2010 at 1:43 am |
@mouayad888 It must be an hybrid recharging the battery when the ICE is idle, or recharging the empty battery during slowdown with regenerative braking. There is no other way of giving a significant amount of energy to the battery while moving, and you will have to recharge every now and then.
September 1st, 2010 at 1:52 am |
@marcheseDS well i thought about it and they r doing it right now in japan if ur following the news. and believe me, it works.
September 1st, 2010 at 2:19 am |
@mouayad888 This violates physics or is a scam, either way is not something to be proud of…if you prove me wrong you will get the Nobel prize and my excuses.
September 1st, 2010 at 2:41 am |
i think he would then have to keep the flywheel, which all that weight ( for the momentum) would cause much less range i think
benjaminNelson, i have a 2000 neon, it good shape, except the motor is starting to break down and its an automatic… im planning of converting it to a dc forklift motor, and cheep batts to start off, then after about a year adding lithium titate batts, ac motor, re-gen what do you think? i forgot im gonig to get a manual trans. for it from the scrap probobly
September 1st, 2010 at 2:53 am |
nice modification but in retrospect wouldn’t it have been a better solution to have kept the clutch..
September 1st, 2010 at 3:51 am |
An automatic would need the motor spinning all the time and kill the range.
September 1st, 2010 at 4:45 am |
I think I would go with a auto trans and work on distance
September 1st, 2010 at 5:03 am |
i have an idea how to charge a battery bank and drive on the other one and put switch to switch to the other battery bank that has been charged and switch the charging system to the battery bank that needs to be charged no plug in any more just the car charges its self while moving if u need any information im here and i will tell u how.you guys worked hard on this ur mistake was u used an ac motor u shuda used a dc motor 5 stars for the hard work
September 1st, 2010 at 5:46 am |
Tom already lives in town. The car has a 50 mile range.
That’s MORE than enough for whatever he needs to do.
September 1st, 2010 at 6:42 am |
sorry but to me it looks like you took a 4 seat econo car that had a range of over 200miles and made a pretty much useless 2 seater with just enough range to MAYBE get to town and back??
September 1st, 2010 at 7:07 am |
I am working on installing a solar photovoltaic system for charging a different electric car and motorcycle at my house.
Renewables are the BEST way to charge electric vehicles!
September 1st, 2010 at 7:43 am |
Have you guys try to install a solar power or wind turbine to charge batteries? Great job at this point and better than ford
September 1st, 2010 at 7:53 am |
Tom, with all due respect, it seems like you sure have made things complicated. I have watched a BUNCH of these conversion videos and I don’t hear anyone talk about their converters ‘shutting down’ or having to put special buttons on their shift knobs to keep motor speeds constant between shifts or any of that stuff. Also, with a 300v AC system, your car should run better than ‘well over 50′. More like ‘well over 60′ or 70. Also, for a Neon, seems your mileage should be better. Thanks.
September 1st, 2010 at 8:10 am |
if you have the cash and the know how the accelerameter is i think the best but if your broke i think you can pull something off with a micro switch and a relay for the brake lights…………love the videos lol someday
September 1st, 2010 at 8:39 am |
good work man keep it up!
September 1st, 2010 at 9:31 am |
The smaller batteries act like the main batteries discharged, you can’t draw heavily on the reserve setup and can’t go far. Even if I did draw the reserve all the way to shut off I’m still over 1.5V per cell. Now that I have a feel for the car as the pack is running down I don’t have to use the reserve, its just there in case of emergency.
September 1st, 2010 at 10:10 am |
The braking is more like using the brakes normally than just coasting to a stop, I have had problems with people running up on me when I’m stopping because I don’t have any break lights.
September 1st, 2010 at 10:18 am |
It’s much more like hard engine braking than just letting off the gas. I think a brake light setup is a good idea, but maybe using the accelerameter so that they only come on when the car is really slowing down at a rate comparable to using the service brake.
September 1st, 2010 at 10:57 am |
I think the brake light issue is really a non issue unless the car is slowing much more than normal engine braking. In a gasoline transmission vehicle, you let off the gas and start to slow down, and the brakes don’t come on. Unless the regen is slowing you like you have your foot on the brake, I wouldn’t set it up, as you will look like you are riding your brakes all the time.
September 1st, 2010 at 11:30 am |
but that over discharges your normal pack baterys.
you need amps , a parellel set of backups, you could use the small ones for your backup.